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Up and Over

Posted August 11, 2013

PART 15 (DAYS 33-35): “How’s everything here?” I asked Chris, the manager at Southern Laughter Lodge, when I arrived back in Queenstown for a day in order to catch a homeward bound flight early the following morning.

“Oh, it’s quiet. It’s finally slowing down,” he answered.

“Oh, is the ski season over?”

“No, the season can go all the way until October,” he told me. “But all the Aussie kids have gone back to university.”

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Meet The Maharaja

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted November 04, 2004

DAY 382:  Baldel, the bearded old Indian man in the paisley shirt, greeted me with a smile and a wave like he did every morning I walked down the market area from the Evergreen Hotel.  It was his way of telling me his cycle rickshaw services were available to me without being too pushy like the other cyclists.

“Hello, how are you?” I greeted him.

“How is your leg?” he asked.  The day before he had brought me to the local hospital to get my leg checked out.

“It’s fine,” I told him, hopping into the carriage, no questions asked.  “I need to go to the City Palace,” I instructed him.  He had been there many a time before, it being one of the main tourist attractions in Jaipur.  However I was going there not as a tourist but as a journalist.  “I’m going to meet with the maharaja.”

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Look At The Stars

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted November 03, 2004

DAY 381:  From what I gather, astrology has a bit of legitimacy in the public eye in India.  In fact, the day before I saw on the front page of the legitimate Hindustan Times, whose cover story was the US election — it’s the cover story in most countries since the American president affect the entire planet — one blurb in the corner that had two prominent astrologists tell what the stars said about the election:  that Bush and the Republicans would win a second term, but that second term would be tough.  At the time, it was not in the hands of the stars but in the hands of American voters, at home and abroad.  (The news reported that the American embassy in Delhi had a record voter turnout of 5,000, two and a half times more than usual.)

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Monkeys, Elephants and Pangkot Palace

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted November 02, 2004

DAY 380:  According to the tips provided by Blogreaders Duaine and markyt, the fictional Pangkot Palace from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom is not just a set in a British sound stage.  The exterior shots were filmed on location in India, more specifically at one of the palaces in Jaipur.  While “palace in Jaipur” is like saying “skyscraper in New York City” or “church in Rome,” it was narrowed down to one palace, the Amber Fort, the former residential fort and palace complex built by Maharaja Man Singh in 1592.  While the current Maharaja Sawai Bhawani Singh (forty odd generations down from Man Singh) chooses to live not the 11 km. north of the city where the Amber Fort is, but in the City Palace itself (it’s closer to the movie theater and the Pizza Hut), the inspiration for Pangkot Palace still remains on a hilltop for tourists to wander and for filmmakers, particularly the ones in Bollywood, to continue using it as a film location.

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Jaipur Introduction

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted November 02, 2004

DAY 379:  I woke up in Agra fighting again, the constant fight in my mind between myself and The Blog.  “Blog” wanted me to hang out in my shabby room in Agra until I typed up another entry, while I just wanted to get out of there.  I really wanted to go; there was a haze over the view of the Taj Mahal, the place was deserted, the toilet was clogged with drainage leaking onto the floor, and I was pretty sure Nati the shady auto-rickshaw driver was going to show up to drive me to another store to make commission if I didn’t leave by mid-morning.  “Blog” said I could go, but only until I got some work done first.

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Playing The Game

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted November 01, 2004

DAY 378:  Every now and then back home in the metro New York City area, my friends and I, inspired by the movie Swingers, hop in the car for a spontaneous 2 1/2-hr. road trip to Atlantic City so that we can pretend to be high rollers.  Because of the free parking (and the fact that we are not high rollers), we often end up in the parking deck of the Showboat casino and eventually walk over to the adjacent Taj Mahal, Donald Trump’s palace of green felt tabletops, shiny slot machines and a pretty good buffet.

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Gandhi Park

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted November 01, 2004

DAY 377:  In 1888, a young man from India went to London town to study law.  Three years later he passed the bar exam and became a bona fide lawyer under the British court system and eventually became the legal representation of a firm in South Africa.  Little did the young Indian man know at the time that a couple of decades later he would be hailed as a saint by some — and shot to death by another.

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Worldwide Pants

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 30, 2004

DAY 376:  Bedridden again, this time in Delhi to rest my leg from the bacterial infection I contracted from a weird insect bite (and the mild “operation” I had to get it cleaned out), I sat in my room as the penicillin did its thing.  For me it was a time to catch up on world news with CNN International and BBC World, with its always catchy break filler background music (RealMedia file) so jazzy that I think I even heard it in a club once.

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American Leftovers and Indian Flair

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 29, 2004

DAY 375:  Since my arrival in India I had two leftover errands from Nepal that I wanted to take care of right away:  finalize my insurance paperwork for reimbursement from the rescue from the Everest trail (total expenses came close to $5,000 USD!) and more importantly, try and get my absentee ballot for the 2004 US presidential election.  I had tried numerous times in the Anoop Hotel’s fax desk to electronically send the eleven sheets of documents to my insurance company, only to have them tell me that I also had to mail in the originals.  I had spent even more money and time to fax in my absentee vote ballot application to either of two numbers in America that I had gotten from the US embassy in Kathmandu.  I don’t know which party was playing games on the other end, but the fax machine wouldn’t pick up my call.

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Good Old Delhi

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 28, 2004

DAY 374:  Centuries ago when the British came and butchered the people of India, there was an immediate resentment and a rebellion built up within the British-governed Indian society.  This was to be expected of course; I mean, what do you expect when a Western superpower forces a governmental system upon a country in order to regulate the taking of its natural resources?  (Sounds familiar, huh?)

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On The Way To Delhi

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 26, 2004

DAY 373:  All my bags were packed, I was ready to go…  ‘Cuz I was leaving on a jet plane, didn’t know when I’d be back in Kathmandu again…

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Reunions

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 26, 2004

DAY 372:  I was awake in my room that morning, ready for another boring day of recuperation — until there was a knock on the door.

“Yeah?” I said, the way Seinfeld speaks into the intercom when his apartment gets buzzed.

“It’s Tilak.”

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Nepali Again

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 26, 2004

DAY 371:  I thought perhaps since Nepal wasn’t a Christian nation, a Sunday would be an ordinary day, with things open.  However, things in the Thamel district were even more dead than before.  When I finally lugged out my laundry to “the cheapest laundry service in town” (a whole big load for about three bucks, washed/dried/folded), I had to wait for it to be done the following day because the laundry guy had the day off.

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In A Dark Back Alley

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 26, 2004

DAY 370:  One of my worst fears in life is to be stranded at sea, the lone survivor of a boat sinking or something.  The fear isn’t the actual being alone or being miles away from being rescued or even the threat of sharks, it is the fact that at any given moment, a big giant whale’s tail could pop out like in those nature documentaries and slap me down silly.  Every time I see one of those whale documentaries on TV and see that happen, I cringe.

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Slowly But Surely

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 26, 2004

DAY 369:  It was the second day of my recuperation since The Incident on The Everest Trail, but that didn’t mean I couldn’t get up and walk around.  Perhaps it was advantageous for me to be recuperating during the big Dashami festival (which took place mostly outside the city) because traffic was low in the usually lively Thamel district (picture below), and I didn’t have to keep dodging the busy traffic of bicycles, motorcycles and cars all competing for king of the road in the narrow bazaar streets.

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What Exit?

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 26, 2004

DAY 368:  “Ohaiyo gozaimas!” greeted the Nepali hotel clerk in Japanese when I finally showed my face downstairs that morning.

“Uh, no, I’m not Japanese.”

I went out to a table in the backyard garden cafe.  The waiter gave me a note left by some Korean guy to pass on.  “This is from your Korean friend.”

“Uh, no, that’s not me.  I’m not Korean.”

What the hell?  Altitude sickness must have been my Kryptonite because in my weakened condition, I no longer had the super power of blending in as a Nepali.

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Die Another Day

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 25, 2004

DAY 367:  “You seem really calm about all this,” Dr. Mike told me the morning after my near-fatal incident on the Everest trail.

“I’m pretty calm about a lot of things,” I said.  I was casually eating a bowl of rara noodle soup.

“You know you could have died yesterday from the pulmonary edema.”

Hmmm, there’s that “D” word again.  I guess when you’re dying slowly, the situation doesn’t seem so grim until someone puts it bluntly to you like that.

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The Long Way Down

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 25, 2004

DAY 366:  (The following entry was written to the best of my memory since I didn’t have much time to take notes or photos in the delirium I was in that day.)

“Your guide is very sick,” Andres’ guide informed me as I woke up in the big bunk bed that morning.  Tilak’s cough had gotten the best of him during the cold Himalayan night and it incapacitated him from being my guide for arguably the better of the two endings of the Everest trail, the peak of Kalapatthar (5545m. ASL), with its view of Everest summit.

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All For A Pun

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 23, 2004

DAY 365(!):  If you haven’t figured it out by now, the reason I was so eager to make it to Mount Everest on my thirtieth birthday was all for the sake of the right to truthfully say for the rest of my life, the following pun (or slight variations thereof):

“When I turned thirty, I was on Mount Everest… and it was all downhill from there.”

(Get it?)

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Sand Trap

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 23, 2004

DAY 364:  I woke up in Pheriche feeling good.  I suppose when you are awake walking around, it is better than actually sleeping alone in a cold, claustrophobic room.

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Garlic Me

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 22, 2004

DAY 363:  Altitude sickness, or mountain sickness, occurs when you are at a high altitude where the oxygen in the air is thinner.  The human body can adjust to the change in oxygen percentage by creating more red blood vessels to bring oxygen to the brain — it simply takes time.  Most people who get altitude sickness get it when they ascend too fast.

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Like Warm Apple Pie

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 22, 2004

DAY 362:  Like pole pole in Swahili and tranquilo in Spanish, the word for “relax” or “slow down” in Nepali is bistarai.

“Oh!  Bistarai!” I exclaimed.  “I recognize it from the movie Raiders of the Lost Ark.”  I explained to Tilak the scene in Nepal where Marion Ravenwood (Karen Allen) is in a drinking contest and shouts “Bistarai!” to everyone when surrounding Nepali gamblers thought the other guy might be the winner.  Tilak had no idea what I was talking about.

“It’s an American movie from 1981.”

“Like American Pie?  I saw American Pie.”

I chuckled.  “Uh, no, it’s not American Pie.”

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The Mysterious Yeti

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 22, 2004

DAY 361:  Bigfoot.  The Loch Ness Monster.  In the Himalayas, the legendary creature is the Abominable Snowman, known by many as the yeti.  You probably won’t believe this, but I swear I saw a yeti in Namche Bazar.

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A Call For Tourists

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 22, 2004

DAY 360:  “My friend tells me you are a journalist,” said a Nepali man at the table in the dining hall.  He was all excited to meet me.

“Well, freelance,” I told him.  “I’m not a staff reporter.  I still have to sell stories.”

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In The Footsteps of Tenzing Norgay

From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted October 22, 2004

DAY 359:  Edmund Hillary, the New Zealander mountaineer became Sir Edmund Hillary when in 1953, he became the first man to climb to the summit of Mount Everest, the highest point on the planet at 8848m ASL.  But he wasn’t alone.  It wasn’t until recent years that a lot of credit went to the Sherpa guide at his side, Tenzing Norgay.  Hillary might not have made it without Tenzing Norgay, as the conditions at the top of Mt. Everest are severe and life-threatening — in the Coen Brothers’ 2003 film Intolerable Cruelty, George Clooney’s character says something to the effect, “No man can make it without his Tenzing Norgay.”  (I saw the flick on a plane.)  Perhaps if the Sherpa people of the Himalayas got more press back in the day, Hillary might not have taken all the initial glory.  (To be fair, Hillary did fully respect the Sherpas and put a lot of money into their community when he got it; on the flipside, it’s not like Tenzing Norgay didn’t have the support of other Sherpas either.)

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