Posted August 11, 2013
PART 15 (DAYS 33-35): “How’s everything here?” I asked Chris, the manager at Southern Laughter Lodge, when I arrived back in Queenstown for a day in order to catch a homeward bound flight early the following morning.
“Oh, it’s quiet. It’s finally slowing down,” he answered.
“Oh, is the ski season over?”
“No, the season can go all the way until October,” he told me. “But all the Aussie kids have gone back to university.”
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 24, 2004
DAY 96: At 13,353 ft. ASL, Potosi not only has its cold nights, it has its cold days too. As I typed away in an internet cafe after my complimentary breakfast, it was so cold I had to wear my woolen hat indoors — I wished I had some gloves.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 22, 2004
DAY 95: In the late summer of 2003, Bolivians just about had it with their president. In protest of their leader, they went on strikes, set up road blocks in the countryside and protested, sometimes violently in the city streets — only to be dealt with the National Police.
Since the changing of presidents in October 2003, peace came back to the country (allowing tourists like me to get in) and without the protests, the National Police put down their “brass” of arms and picked up another type of “brass” — tubas, trumpets and trombones — for the National Police Musical Band.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 21, 2004
DAY 94: Potosi isn’t just the world’s highest city; at one point in history it used to be the richest city in Latin America. Its wealth came from the abundance of silver discovered in the Cerro Rico, the big mountain overlooking the town. Mines were created in the 1500’s to extract the silver and other valuable metals, to process them and export them. Back in the day, many of the people in the mine worked as slaves that lived under poor conditions, including children — much like in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, the 1984 Steven Spielberg classic where Indiana Jones (played by Harrison Ford) encounters a secret Thuggee cult financially supported by underground mines.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 20, 2004
DAY 93: I woke up on a cold, southern hemisphere summer day in my Potosi hostel. Being in the highest city in the world at 13,353 ft. ASL, mornings are cold year round. With no real agenda for the day but to chill out, I just stayed under my three llama wool blankets in my room.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 20, 2004
DAY 92: Potosi, the highest city in the world at 13,353 ft. ASL, was supposed to be a “five hour” ride according to the woman I bought my bus ticket from that morning in Uyuni. However I discovered by the end of the day that getting that high wasn’t as easy as she said.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 19, 2004
DAY 91: “Hey, check out the flavor of shampoo,” I instructed Sam in the bathroom of the hostel. I was referring to the packet of shampoo someone had previously left. Sam looked over and read it: “placenta.” We figured it was for that fresh “newborn” feeling in the morning.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 19, 2004
DAY 90: Our wake-up knock on the door came about half an hour before dawn — at an hour the girls appropriately called “stupid o’clock.” The point of waking at such an hour was to catch the sunrise, and we were disappointed when we discovered it was too cloudy to see it — but we were already up and it was too late to slip back into bed.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 19, 2004
DAY 89: After breakfast, we loaded up all the jeeps and went one by one into the surreal combination of the Bolivian desert landscape and 80s pop music. Each jeep was full of different characters which, over the course of the day, inevitably got secret nicknames from the characters of our jeep.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 19, 2004
DAY 88: Surrealist master Salvador Dali once visited the Bolivian deserts and salt flats, which inspired him in many of his paintings. Before my trip to South America, I had seen pictures of the surreal landscape that he and thousands of other tourists had visited, and the salt flats became one of the reasons — if not the reason — for me to visit Bolivia in the first place. However, I didn’t know until my own visit that it wasn’t just the visual landscape that had a surreal element to it.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 19, 2004
DAY 87: In Stand By Me, the 1986 Rob Reiner movie about four boys who bond together during a two-day hike along train tracks in search of the corpse of a dead kid, the narrator (played by Richard Dreyfuss) says this: “Friends come in and out of your life like busboys in a restaurant.” This statement also rings true for people on the backpacker trail; you never know when someone you met before will suddenly be in your life again.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 19, 2004
DAY 86: It had been over a week since I arrived in La Paz, and with my Brazilian visa slated to be ready, it was about time to move on. Tim looked on his visa pick-up slip and saw that his was to be ready on the 13th as well, despite that the guy said it wouldn’t be ready until the 14th. He tagged along with me on the way back to the Brazilian embassy in Sopacachi.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 13, 2004
DAY 85: It has been called the “World’s Most Dangerous Road.” This route through the Yungas mountain range between La Paz and the little village of Yolosi starts at the peak of one of the mountains at 15,322 ft ASL and dramatically descends down to 4,460 ft ASL over the course of 63 km. The single lane dirt road hugs the mountains for vehicles to travel on — that is, if they’re careful enough not to fall off the edge and down deep into the valley.
It’s one thing to ride in a bus along this route, but its another to ride down it on a mountain bike. The trip, offered by about a dozen adventure tour companies in La Paz, had been highly recommended to me from travelers I had met on the road, from Heidi to Sergei the Hamburger (from the Galapagos trip) who called it “the best thing he’s done in South America.”
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 12, 2004
DAY 84: One of the “Things to See and Do” mentioned in the Lonely Planet book was to visit San Pedro prison by ignoring all guards and police, nonchalantly walking into the prison and asking for someone to take you around for a fee. Lara, Tim and I had planned to do this, but after a night of partying hard amongst the Bolivians, we non-Bolivians needed a day to just rest. For most of the day, that’s just what we did. We learned that the prison visits were no longer available anyway.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 12, 2004
DAY 83: Bolivia has been blamed for supplying the international drug trade with its coveted coca leaf — which is processed with ether and a bunch of chemicals to produce cocaine. However, the coca leaf in its natural form has been infused with Bolivian culture for centuries. Years ago, one of the first things a family would build right after a house to live in was a coca garden, as coca leaves were an integral part of Bolivian life.
All this information was given to me at a visit to La Paz’s Coca Museum, where Lara, Tim and I went in the morning.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 10, 2004
DAY 82: Before I left New York in October 2003, I didn’t have any visas — as an American, I can freely travel to most countries, in the tackiest clothes if I choose. Brazil is one of the few countries in South America that actually requires a visa for Americans, and with Rio de Janeiro’s famous Carnivale coming soon, it was about time I got one.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 09, 2004
DAY 81: From what I’ve gathered, my initial reaction to La Paz is similar to many other travelers, that it’s just a big crowded city with no vibe or coolness factor. However, things started looking up when I left my hostel in the middle of dark alley to a new one in a livlier part of town, which had some amenities that the other one didn’t: hot water, toilets that flushed all the time and the absence of some guy who would sing loud opera tunes early in the morning.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 07, 2004
DAY 80: Still feeling sick, I just slept in my hostel dorm bed all morning to recuperate. Joel the Australian chemistry student probably thought I was lame because instead of staying a couple more days to hang out like we were planning, he decided to ditch me and the city of La Paz and head south with a bus ticket.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 06, 2004
DAY 79: I was awake by 6 a.m. feeling a little bit better from my illness. I ate a mango for the extra vitamins and gathered all my belongings. As always, I was amazed when I looked around the room to see if I forgot anything, only to realize that everything I would need to get by on a round-the-world trip fit conveniently in two bags.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 05, 2004
DAY 78: I woke up on a rainy morning on Isla Amantani feeling a little bit better from the night before. Basilia came to our room with a breakfast of bread, eggs and muña tea, and then bid us an early goodbye. “[I have to go to work,]” she explained. Rachel gave her the gifts of such groceries as cooking oil and rice before she head off.
“That goodbye was pretty anti-climactic,” I commented.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 05, 2004
DAY 77: Lake Titicaca, the lake that Simpsons’ creator Matt Groening once called a place whose name is guaranteed to make kids snicker, lies on the border of Peru and Bolivia at an elevation of over 12,500 ft above sea level — one of the world’s highest lakes. Rachel, a 22-year-old Chicago native working in northern Peru — and my new roommate for the day — told me that Peruvians say that the Peruvian side is the “Titty” side, while the Bolivia is the “Caca” side. Now if that doesn’t make the kids in your life snicker, I suggest you start making fart noises with your armpit.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 05, 2004
DAY 76: Dave the Australian was up and out of our room by 7:15 in the morning, less than four hours since we checked in, for his day tour of Lake Titicaca. He left me a ten soles note on my bedside, and with the exchange rate, I felt like a Two Dollar and Eighty Six Cents Peruvian Whore.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 02, 2004
DAY 75: Being in a No Internet Zone (aka N.I.Z.) for two days or more often forces me to take an entire day to sit in front of a computer to catch up on The Blog. On my last day in Arequipa, that’s what I did.
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 02, 2004
DAY 74: Usually I wake up on New Year’s Day hungover, with a feeling like I am at the bottom of the deepest canyon in the world. When I woke up at 4 a.m. feeling that same way, I realized, “Holy crap man, I am at the bottom of the deepest canyon in the world!”
Continue reading...From the trip blog: "The Global Trip 2004: Sixteen Months Around The World"
Posted January 02, 2004
DAY 73: MY LAST DAY OF 2003 started at one o’clock in the morning. My alarm woke me up twenty minutes before my 1:20 pick up from my guide who would take me and Heidi down Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world, with the lowest point at a depth of 10,433 ft. A knock on my room door at 1:15 signaled me that my guide was running five minutes early, and so I grabbed my smaller bag — my bigger was locked in storage — and hopped in the taxi with him. The taxi driver drove us to Heidi’s hostel, where we picked her up before continuing onto the bus terminal.
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