Posted: November 29, 2003
DAY 34: To kill time before my 8:00 pm boat tour departure, I went back to Turtle Bay to chill out and read. On my way down the winding path, I ran into Chris who was on his way back to town. I chatted with the 63-year-old South African from Toronto until that uncomfortable silent lull you inevitably get when you bump into an acquaintance on the street and there is no good gossip to talk about. Your options usually are to A) Talk about the nice or shitty weather; B) Scratch your ass; C) A followed by B; or what I did, D) Say, “Well, I’ll be seeing you.”
He left for his flight back to the mainland later that day and I never saw him again.
Posted: November 29, 2003
DAY 35: The Galapagos Islands attracts many kinds of visitors, from retired American couples and their funny-looking beach hats and Bermuda shorts, to scuba divers and their funny-looking everything if they ever walked out on the streets with all their gear on. I put all this gear on for my first dive at 5:45 in the morning off the coast of Isla Rabida.
Posted: November 29, 2003
DAY 36: I was up on deck at sunrise before the others. Manuel was there doing morning chores and I rapped with him for a bit. We exchanged English and Spanish words until he saw something off the starboard side.
“Mira, hay tortugas que haciendo sexo.” (“Look, there are turtles having sex.”)
And thus began my second day on a boat trip of the Galapagos. (Others started by jumping off the side of the boat for a morning swim.)
Posted: November 29, 2003
DAY 37: There was a knock on the door at 5:45 in the morning. It was Mauricio waking everyone up for an early sunrise pre-breakfast land excursion on North Seymour Island, land of frigate birds and blue-footed boobies, birds whose mere name makes little kids — and this author — snicker immaturely.
Posted: November 29, 2003
DAY 38: Manuel was tidying up the lounge area in the morning while I was waiting for the first diving group to return. He poured himself a drink and told me it was his wife’s birthday back at home. “Salud,” he said as he raised his glass.
“Salud!” I reciprocated. Funny, I had no idea he was married all that time.
Posted: November 29, 2003
DAY 39: Each island of the Galapagos archipelago has its share of endemic species — species that are not found anywhere else. Sometimes we’d be treated to a new animal, sometimes it was the same old marine iguana, sally lightfoot crab or the ever-popular sea lion (which never got tired.) This was the case when we landed on the shores of Gardner Bay on Isla Española, the southern most island of all the Galapagos and walked along its white sand beach. However, as Darwin discovered, Life finds a way to make things interesting.
Posted: November 29, 2003
DAY 40: For my fourth and final scuba dive, I went underwater around Enderby Rock, a popular dive site off the coast of Isla Floreana. It was a very good ending to my series of dives; I saw two Galapagos sharks, a huge school of baracudas, puffers, and sea turtles — all swimming around a beautiful coral reef grown over lava rocks.
Posted: November 30, 2003
DAY 41: Birgit and I were so used to the early morning wake-ups on the ship that we were both lying in bed awake at 6:30. Birgit had developed a fever, so I lent her some of my medicine. La Gripe was back.
Posted: November 30, 2003
DAY 42: I had a 9:30 airport shuttle to catch back in Puerto Ayora in the morning, which would have been an easy thing if I was there. I woke up with the sun as always around 6:30 wondering how the hell I was going to get out of the Middle of Nowhere. I laid in bed next to the girl I had only known for a couple of hours, figuring I’d wait til at least 7:00 to make any moves.
Posted: December 02, 2003
DAY 43: Navid and I were out of the hostel in the Guayaquil suburbs before eight and caught a city bus to the main bus terminal. A fake Christmas tree stood in the center of the main hall and for the first time, it was beginning to look a little like Christmas.
Posted: December 02, 2003
DAY 44: I bid a fond farewell to Navid when we left the hostel before eight in the morning. He hopped on a mototaxi which brought him to the airport for his flights to Cuzco. For the first time since I touched down in South America, I was alone again.
Posted: December 08, 2003
DAY 45: In 1987, when most people were discovering the idea of boiling rabbits in Fatal Attraction, a group of archaeologists discovered new ruins just 30 km southeast of Chiclayo, Peru. This find contained the tombs of Sipan, an ancient city of the Moche civilization, a people who pre-date the more widely-known Incas. The reason for their decreased popularity is due to the fact that they didn’t leave any written records — which is sad because we will never know if boiling rabbits ever appealed to them.
Posted: December 08, 2003
DAY 46: Since no roads go to the Amazonian jungle city of Iquitos, there are only two ways to get there: by plane or — if you have time to kill like me — via a cargo boat up the Rio Marañon, one of the main tributaries that make up the mighty Amazon River. The closest river port for these cargo ships is in the city of Yurimaguas which involves — as Lonely Planet describes — “a tiring road trip from the coast.”
Posted: December 08, 2003
DAY 47: The sun came up over Tarapoto and broke through the morning mist, revealing a pretty town surrounded by mountains. I got dressed and sorted out and went looking for a place for breakfast — there was one on the fourth floor with a view of the city, and it was included in my fee.
Posted: December 08, 2003
DAY 48: The sun broke through the river fog to reveal what I didn’t want to see: through my “first class” “window,” I saw that we still hadn’t left the port in Yurimaguas.
Posted: December 08, 2003
DAY 49: The sun was already up when our cargo ship stopped in Maripoto, a tiny village on the riverbank where the Rio Huallaga meets the Rio Marañon. It was the first of many stops along the way where we picked up bunches and bunches of bananas.
Posted: December 08, 2003
DAY 50: You would think that Amazonian city of Iquitos, the largest city in the world without any connecting roads, would be reminiscent of a lost Shangri-La or an ancient city out of a Tarzan set. The fact is, Iquitos, the Amazon River’s first port during the rubber industry boom, now has over 500,000 residents and is a bustling modern city — it was evident as soon as we arrived at the port.
Posted: December 09, 2003
DAY 51: Like Tarzan swinging from vine to vine in the jungle, I swung from person-I-could-possibly-trust to person-I-could-possibly-trust. With the girls off on a flight back to Lima, I only had Richard to turn to for advice — which was a good thing in an urban jungle crawling with Shady Tour Men trying to make a quick buck. Knowing a local also came in handy when I noticed the massive army that came marching into town in full attack gear with crossbows, missile launchers and machine guns.
Posted: December 15, 2003
DAY 52: I bid farewell to the hostel desk attendant — who, hearing that I was from New York, assumed I was Puerto Rican — and rode with Andres to the docks. He put me in a motorboat taxi for the three hour ride upstream on the Amazon.
Posted: December 15, 2003
DAY 53: My lip had swollen down about half way from the night before, and sensation was coming back, which was a good thing being mistletoe season — not that there was any mistletoe around. In the steamy jungle, it was the exact opposite of “looking a lot like Christmas.”
Posted: December 15, 2003
DAY 54: Alone in my hut in my mosquito net tent, I heard rustling outside, followed by the sounds of small footsteps of monkeys. Suddenly one of them landed on the roof of my mosquito net and so I grabbed my things and ran off to the main hut — not for fear of monkey bites, but that they’d steal my stuff. When I got into the main hut, I saw that a monkey had gotten in and taken a scoop of rice before running off.
Posted: December 15, 2003
DAY 55: Juan and I woke at dawn and left our things in camp to go on a morning hike. We walked along a trail, on logs, through creeks, looking at the different medicinal plants. Juan showed me a coconut tree with small coconuts the size of a fist, which he cut open with his machete. Inside were butterfly larvae that had hatched from eggs their mother had injected inside, to use the fruit and protection of the coconut to nurse them.
Posted: December 15, 2003
DAY 56: I woke up around three in the morning to the sound of a distant static. Gradually the white noise got closer and closer until it started pouring rain in camp. The wind blew out all the mosquito candles, leaving base camp completely dark. Perhaps it was best this way because it hid the fact that, when I woke up in the morning, I found a tarantula in my bed frame.
Posted: December 16, 2003
DAY 57: I was off to drop my laundry off in Iquitos to wash out the stench of vinegar-flavored yogurt and bug spray, when I ran into Richard on the street again. It was weird, because the run-in didn’t feel random — it was like he was waiting for me to come out so he could ask if I wanted him to guide me to the zoo that he mentioned to me the week before.
Posted: December 16, 2003
DAY 58: Call me old-fashioned, but during the holiday season, I like it to feel a little bit like Christmas — you know, with the trees and decorations and people following shoppers leaving the mall to snatch their parking space, only to find out they were just dropping off bags in the trunk. Being in the jungle city of Iquitos, I was far away from anything remotely resembling a stereotypical Christmas, and so it was time to move on.
Posted: December 17, 2003
DAY 59: The Lord of the Rings trilogy is a phenomenon in many countries around the globe, Peru included. Tolkien’s world is very much a part of Peruvian pop culture as it is in the States, and with the worldwide December 17th release of the third film, Peruvian nerds, like their North American and European counterparts, lined up in hordes to see El Retorno del Rey. In fact, a front page article in the national newspaper El Comercio had a picture of the hundreds of Peruvian nerds who sat in theaters for ten hours straight watching all three movies back to back to back.
Posted: December 18, 2003
DAY 60: Just south of Lima is the affluent oceanside suburb of Miraflores, a place that despite its fancy restaurants and hotels, is suggested as “the better place to stay for budget travelers” according to Lonely Planet. Perhaps this is why the South American Explorers moved their clubhouse there, so it warranted a visit.
Posted: December 20, 2003
DAY 61: I was writing a rough draft in the rooftop cafe of the Lima hostel early in the morning when two new pet animals, a pair of turtles, wandered in and walked under the tables and chairs. It took sometime for the turtles to get anywhere.
Posted: December 20, 2003
DAY 62: Ica, capital city of the department of the same name, is known for two things: its massive and dramatic surrounding sand dunes (picture below), and its pisco brandy and wine-producing vineyards. The easiest way to see them both is with a city tour. At just ten dollars, the tour wasn’t a bad deal considering the amount of free booze samples you get. And what’s not to like about free booze?
Posted: December 21, 2003
DAY 63: Nights in pisco country are great, but the mornings after aren’t so much. With the absence of my usual greasy Hangover Helpers in New York — Union Square’s McDonald’s, Flatiron District’s Eisenberg’s Sandwich Shop or Chinatown’s Wo Hop — I turned to the regional breakfast specialty, the Tamale Iqueño, a corn dough treat stuffed with pork, olives, beans and spices. It might not have been greasy enough to make a sheet of paper transparent, but it did the trick.
Posted: December 23, 2003
DAY 64: I was lying in bed in the darkness of my room with no windows when there was a knock on the door. It was my driver for my transport to the airport — an hour and a half early. Lizet, the girl I booked the Nazca lines air tour with the day before, must have mixed something up, because I was suddenly on an 8 a.m. flight instead of a 9. Groggily, I put on my clothes and hopped in the car. It was the first time things in Peru actually ran ahead of schedule.
Posted: December 24, 2003
DAY 65: In 1996, the adventure video game Tomb Raider was born, starring the full-lipped, big-breasted virtual heroine Lara Croft. The gun-toting Lara adventured around the world in search of artifacts like a modern, female Indiana Jones. The popularity of the Tomb Raider video game spawned two movies in which the full-lipped, big-breasted virtual Lara Croft took the human form of Angelina Jolie.
Posted: December 25, 2003
DAY 66: It’s one thing to be hungover after a night of boozing, but it’s another to be hungover when you haven’t yet acclimatized to the thin oxygen 11,000 ft. above sea level. I woke up feeling just awful (but with no regrets) and laid in bed questioning why I was alive — Lara felt the same way. We weren’t sure if it was the pisco or the altitude, but perhaps it was a little from Column A and a little from Column B.
Posted: December 25, 2003
DAY 67: I woke up to the sound of firecrackers in the streets early in the morning — the kids had been setting them off all night. For me, the sounds of Christmas morning sounded more like the sounds of the Fourth of July.
Posted: December 26, 2003
DAY 68: Some people would say that the best invention since sliced bread is the “snooze” button. You know it and its contribution to Mankind — why wake up and face reality when all you have to do is simply push a button and stay in dream land another ten minutes?
Posted: December 27, 2003
DAY 69: I was having breakfast at the cafe across the street from the hostel when I noticed the same two women I had noticed at various places in town almost everyday. They were two local women who dressed in traditional Andean clothes that walked around with a llama, asking tourists if they wanted to take their picture for a small fee. The Ecuadorean group in the cafe ran out to pose with them, while I stayed inside and finished my yogurt, fruit and granola bowl.
Posted: December 28, 2003
DAY 70: “Guess what,” I asked Lara at an early morning breakfast before our day trip to the Sacred Valley. “I got a traditional Andean band to play ‘Y.M.C.A.’ tonight at 8:30.”
“Excellent,” she said. We were both looking forward to it. I even sent out an e-mail to The Ohio Boys about it in case they got back from Machu Picchu in time.
Posted: December 29, 2003
DAY 71: I was up by seven o’clock in the morning to see Lara off before she left with her transport to her 4-day/3-night trek to Machu Picchu — a trek I had already done in 2001. It was her goal to ring in 2004 by entering the “lost” city of the Incas on the morning of New Year’s Day. She left the hostel by 8 a.m. with her new fleece, the cheesy water bottle holder I got her for Christmas and rations of Twix bars and Oreos.
Posted: January 01, 2004
DAY 72: Arequipa, Peru’s second largest city, is nestled in the valley of three volcanoes. The lava of these volcanoes have hardened over geological history to form the white-colored rock known as sillar, which many of the buildings were made of — hence, Arequipa’s nickname, “The White City.”
Posted: January 02, 2004
DAY 73: MY LAST DAY OF 2003 started at one o’clock in the morning. My alarm woke me up twenty minutes before my 1:20 pick up from my guide who would take me and Heidi down Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world, with the lowest point at a depth of 10,433 ft. A knock on my room door at 1:15 signaled me that my guide was running five minutes early, and so I grabbed my smaller bag — my bigger was locked in storage — and hopped in the taxi with him. The taxi driver drove us to Heidi’s hostel, where we picked her up before continuing onto the bus terminal.
Posted: January 02, 2004
DAY 74: Usually I wake up on New Year’s Day hungover, with a feeling like I am at the bottom of the deepest canyon in the world. When I woke up at 4 a.m. feeling that same way, I realized, “Holy crap man, I am at the bottom of the deepest canyon in the world!”
Posted: January 02, 2004
DAY 75: Being in a No Internet Zone (aka N.I.Z.) for two days or more often forces me to take an entire day to sit in front of a computer to catch up on The Blog. On my last day in Arequipa, that’s what I did.
Posted: January 05, 2004
DAY 76: Dave the Australian was up and out of our room by 7:15 in the morning, less than four hours since we checked in, for his day tour of Lake Titicaca. He left me a ten soles note on my bedside, and with the exchange rate, I felt like a Two Dollar and Eighty Six Cents Peruvian Whore.
Posted: January 05, 2004
DAY 77: Lake Titicaca, the lake that Simpsons’ creator Matt Groening once called a place whose name is guaranteed to make kids snicker, lies on the border of Peru and Bolivia at an elevation of over 12,500 ft above sea level — one of the world’s highest lakes. Rachel, a 22-year-old Chicago native working in northern Peru — and my new roommate for the day — told me that Peruvians say that the Peruvian side is the “Titty” side, while the Bolivia is the “Caca” side. Now if that doesn’t make the kids in your life snicker, I suggest you start making fart noises with your armpit.
Posted: January 05, 2004
DAY 78: I woke up on a rainy morning on Isla Amantani feeling a little bit better from the night before. Basilia came to our room with a breakfast of bread, eggs and muña tea, and then bid us an early goodbye. “[I have to go to work,]” she explained. Rachel gave her the gifts of such groceries as cooking oil and rice before she head off.
“That goodbye was pretty anti-climactic,” I commented.
Posted: January 06, 2004
DAY 79: I was awake by 6 a.m. feeling a little bit better from my illness. I ate a mango for the extra vitamins and gathered all my belongings. As always, I was amazed when I looked around the room to see if I forgot anything, only to realize that everything I would need to get by on a round-the-world trip fit conveniently in two bags.
Posted: January 07, 2004
DAY 80: Still feeling sick, I just slept in my hostel dorm bed all morning to recuperate. Joel the Australian chemistry student probably thought I was lame because instead of staying a couple more days to hang out like we were planning, he decided to ditch me and the city of La Paz and head south with a bus ticket.
Posted: January 09, 2004
DAY 81: From what I’ve gathered, my initial reaction to La Paz is similar to many other travelers, that it’s just a big crowded city with no vibe or coolness factor. However, things started looking up when I left my hostel in the middle of dark alley to a new one in a livlier part of town, which had some amenities that the other one didn’t: hot water, toilets that flushed all the time and the absence of some guy who would sing loud opera tunes early in the morning.
Posted: January 10, 2004
DAY 82: Before I left New York in October 2003, I didn’t have any visas — as an American, I can freely travel to most countries, in the tackiest clothes if I choose. Brazil is one of the few countries in South America that actually requires a visa for Americans, and with Rio de Janeiro’s famous Carnivale coming soon, it was about time I got one.
Posted: January 12, 2004
DAY 83: Bolivia has been blamed for supplying the international drug trade with its coveted coca leaf — which is processed with ether and a bunch of chemicals to produce cocaine. However, the coca leaf in its natural form has been infused with Bolivian culture for centuries. Years ago, one of the first things a family would build right after a house to live in was a coca garden, as coca leaves were an integral part of Bolivian life.
All this information was given to me at a visit to La Paz’s Coca Museum, where Lara, Tim and I went in the morning.